Thanjavur lies in the Kaveri delta of Tamil Nadu; it has been the capital of the powerful Chola kings. I had two free days to visit this historical place. I didn’t rush myself. I explored magnificent temples, silent palace halls, and tiny workshops where ancient craftsmanship was practised.
Planning a short weekend in Thanjavur
A short weekend trip needs a flexible and easy plan. There are no regular commercial flights to Thanjavur, so I had to fly to Chennai International Airport (MAA), followed by another flight to Tiruchirappalli International Airport (TIR), about 60 kilometres away. I wanted to arrive well-rested and ready to start my exploration. So I chose a business cabin for my flight to Chennai which gave me a bit of extra space and an overall better experience with complimentary meals and priority in-flight services on the plane and at the airport. After finally landing, it took me almost two hours to reach Thanjavur by cab.
Brihadisvara Temple, the crown of Thanjavur
Brihadisvara Temple is one of Thanjavur’s popular monuments. Raja Raja Chola I built it, and it was consecrated in 1010 CE. UNESCO lists it as a World Heritage Site. I arrived at sunrise. The granite tower rose into a pale sky. It stands about 66 metres tall. I stood in the courtyard for a long time, simply observing.
The giant Nandi and the temple courtyard
All Shiva temples have Nandi, the holy bull facing the shrine. Here, the Nandi is made of stone and is among the largest in India. I walked around it slowly. Devotees were reciting prayers. The courtyard was calm even with visitors. The long corridor felt pleasant, and I sat there for half an hour.
Thanjavur Maratha Palace and its quiet halls
Thanjavur Maratha Palace was built by Nayak kings and later extended by Marathas. Now the palace has many galleries, courtyards and a tall tower. I wandered through its wide halls in the afternoon. The paint has lost its colour but is visible on some arches. The guide told us how the palace changed owners through centuries. The walls looked old but dignified.
The Art Gallery and its Chola bronzes
The palace complex has a gallery of ancient bronze sculptures from the Chola age. These bronzes are famous in the region. Lost wax, an ancient method, was used to create them. I stopped before the Nataraja figure and was mesmerised. No photograph could capture that feeling.
Saraswathi Mahal Library, a hidden treasure of Thanjavur
The library is one of the region’s oldest libraries, built within the premises of the royal palace, containing manuscripts on palm leaves and rare books written in many languages. The authority showed me where fixed spectacles were placed underneath glass plates with words written in tiny letters on pages. I learned that this library is widely visited for scholarly research. The place creates a serene environment.
Thanjavur painting and the gold leaf tradition
Thanjavur painting is the area’s cultural tradition where painters use bright colours, rich details, and thin sheets of gold. All paintings usually depict various deities against a bright background. I visited a small family workshop located near the palace and watched the painting. The artist showed me how she uses gold plates. I bought a small painting after the experience.
Thalaiyatti bommai, the nodding dolls of Thanjavur
Thalaiyatti bommai are traditional dolls with heads that rock gently. Local artisans make them from clay and paper pulp. The dolls are painted in bright colours. I found them in a crafts shop near the main road. The seller showed me how the head balances on a rounded base. I was amused and bought two. They sit on my shelf now.
Simple vegetarian meals in Thanjavur
Food in Thanjavur is soft, warm and honest. I ate breakfast at a small eatery near the temple. Hot pongal came with sambar and coconut chutney. A crisp vada sat on the side. Lunch was rice, rasam and vegetables served on a banana leaf. Strong filter coffee finished every meal. Each plate cost very little and tasted wonderful.
What I would suggest for an amazing Thanjavur weekend
The best time to visit Thanjavur is between October and March, when it is cooler. Arrive at the Brihadisvara Temple early, before the sun becomes too strong. Dress comfortably and wear comfortable shoes. Reserve some time in the afternoon for an easy stroll.
Final thoughts
I came to Thanjavur to visit an ancient capital but left with softer impressions. I enjoyed a high granite tower in the early morning light, a golden brush and a bowl of hot pongal. The city carries its past proudly. Everything seemed to be steady and composed.
